
On Friday afternoon, we decided that we would indeed be going to Yaroslavl for the weekend. Brandon looked up trains and hotels, and we left early Saturday morning. Because it was so last minute, our train tickets to Yaroslavl were the lowest of the low (плацкартный or platzkartnii)--as in we told some of our Russian friends how we traveled and they laughed at us. Basically, you are assigned a car and everyone fends for themselves as to where they sit, sleep, etc. There was some controversy when we first got there because a lady started jabbering to us in Russia (she said that she had been saving our seats). Brandon told me just to sit down and that pretty much settled it. Four hours later (after we made quite the dent in our books--Brandon had a
Rex Stout and I had a
Jane Austen), we were in Yaroslavl!

Our method for choosing where to stay was simple--of the two or three hotels that answered their phone, we picked the cheapest. I, at one point, expressed the concern that we should have checked a map to see how close to the center our hotel was, and Brandon scoffed at me. You can't find a map of Yaroslavl online. At least I couldn't. However, we did buy a city map when we arrived.
The instructions we received from the hotel were to get off our bus at the last stop and then just ask for directions. Sounded simple enough. So we got on the bus and we just kept going and going until the bus eventually stopped in the middle of nowhere. Hmmm. We wandered around with our map for a little while and then found an excellent Russian couple that offered to show us the way--even though they didn't really know where it was either. (People are so nice in Yaroslavl!)
Off we went, walking the route of the bus, and then through shady neighborhood after shady neighborhood. I was trying to catch Brandon's eye and convey the message, "If our hotel looks like the rest of these places, I'm not spending the night there," but he pretended not to notice. Two hours after we got off the train, the four of us finally found our oasis--the спорт (Sport) Hotel! My fears were unfounded. We even had our own bathroom and shower! (I'm not being facetious--we had had our doubts.) Never have such low expectations been so highly exceeded.
The rest of the day was spent in touristing aplenty.
First we went to Yaroslavl's Kremlin, which used to be a monastery.

The town is full of churches, so we kinda picked a dome in the distance and went with it. After a while this method stopped working because there were
so many churches, we couldn't possibly get to them all.

We did get to this church in time to see the priest (or whatever the Russian Orthodox equivalent is) ringing the church bells. It was very impressive.
We walked by the Volga, caught a local fashion show, saw the Yaroslavl sights, and headed back to the hotel.

The next day was raining, and I only had flip flops, so I got my first real рынок (rinok--it's like a swapmeet) experience. By the second shoe stall, the entire shoe area of the рынок knew what we were looking for--color, size, type of heel, etc. There was a constant "девушка, девушка! (girl, girl!)" We ended up not buying anything because it had stopped raining and headed for church.
Yaroslavl was Brandon's first area as a missionary, so it had been 6 years since anyone in the branch had seen him. Nevertheless, when we walked in, there were several people that recognized him right away. The branch president asked Brandon to bear his testimony, and he was able to greet the branch that first welcomed him to Russia.
After church and some time reminiscing with the members, we headed to the train station by way of a local cemetery. Russians fence off their plots, so the cemeteries are a giant maze of fences. It was pretty cool.

But we didn't stay too long because there was some sketchy-looking
шаурма (shawarma) calling our name at the train station. After a whirl-wind trip to Yaroslavl, it was time to head home to Moscow.